Today I fulfilled a boy hood fantasy of surfin the Mexican pipeline AKA Puerto Escondido. This wave is not for the faint of heart. It is a HEAVY wave, so heavy in fact that the guy at the surf shop wouldn't let me rent a board with a leash cuz he said I had a better chance of breaking the board wearing one. Perfect. I'll surf 6-10ft thumping Puerto with no leash on a '7"4 gun I've never ridden before. I managed to get a few waves. Once I get the pics uploaded I'll put them on the blog. I didn't get the memorable deep tube I really wanted. In fact my wave in I got a serious drubbing. Lost my board and took a couple 10 rooters in the head swimming in. FUN! I was in no mans land and a boogie boarder let me tread water and hold on to his board for a few waves until I got in.
I spent the day relaxing and taking care o basic thing lime laundry, cleaning my bike, calling family and friends, reading, and taking a nap. The owner on the hostel is agal named Ella. She invited us to see the sunset with her and her friends. We went to La Punta which is a left hand point break in Puerto Escondido. It was beautiful and they all wanted to go out AGAIN. Man I can't keep up with these people. Once a week is fine but every night is to
much. I ride tomorrow. We should be in Guatemala January 17th. I'm looking forward to it.
Ride4water via Iphone4
